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Forbes Lifestyle Dining Big Bold Reds For Fall Fare John Mariani Contributor Opinions expressed by Forbes Contributors are their own. I cover the world’s best hotels, restaurants and wine. Following Oct 26, 2023, 10:45am EDT | Press play to listen to this article! Got it! Share to Facebook Share to Twitter Share to Linkedin Find the right red wine to celebrate autumn. getty Fifty years ago, when the wines of California stirred worldwide interest for their sun-rich body and big flavors, many of the state’s vintners made their overnight reputation on the basis of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, with alcohol levels above 14.5% alcohol, in contrast to Bordeaux models that were almost always blends of varietals in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon and with alcohol levels that rarely topped 14%. The California style could be impressive—very fruit forward, massive tannins and alcohol that after one glass could fatigue the palate. Over time many of California’s red wines remained big and bold but, led by the so-called Meritage Society members, blending Cabernets with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot has become commonplace and has made for far better balanced wines. Still, there is a large audience for muscular reds, which in some cases, like Italy’s Amarone dell Valpolicella, had always aimed for massive body and high alcohol, though modern-day Amarones have toned down. The playing field is somewhat more even these days, not least because global warming is creating hotter, bigger wines with more sugars to turn into alcohol. If you like that style, here is an array I think you’ll find very appealing. But, as my notes below show, not every big wine needs to have big alcohol. Oregon produces excellent cooler climates Pinot Noir like this by Johan Vineyards. John Vineyards Johan Vineyards Pinot Noir Estate 2021 ($36) Produced in the Van Duzer Corridor of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Johan’s wines are strictly based on biodynamic farming “using a range of homeopathic applications to promote healthy and holistic growth,” maintained over 30 acres of a biodiversity preserve, composed of calcareous sedimentary soils with non-native erratic granite rather than iron-rich volcanic soil. Winemaker Morgan Beck and Vineyard Manager Nathan Wood took advantage of 2021’s climatic virtues, and used ten grape clones to come up with the balance they sought. MORE FOR YOU Multiple People Dead And Dozens Wounded In Mass Shootings In Maine, Suspect Still At Large Leak Reveals Joe Biden Could Be About To Issue A Game Changing Executive Order That Could Spark Bitcoin Ethereum XRP And Crypto Price Chaos What We Know About Robert Card The Person Of Interest In The Maine Mass Shootings Fervore Single Vineyard Magliocco Dolce 2018 ($27) Very slowly a group of young vintners have been upgrading the image of hot climate Calabrian wines, away from bulk to single vineyards. Brothers Giuseppe and Nicola Chiapetta and enologist Gianfranco Fino use 100% Magliocco Dolce to produce this unusual indigenous red (sometimes confused with Gaglioppo). It is late ripening, which builds up the flavors and tannins. After about 12 months of aging, the wine is bottled without the aid of clarifiers and without tartaric precipitation. After about 36 months of aging it is released. “Dolce” means “sweet,” but, although it is fruit forward, the fruit has a dark intensity that proves a 13% alcohol red wine can have remarkable power. Two recently released vintages of Mayacamas show how Napa Valley reds can age. Mayacamas Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($185) And 2009 ($300) Mayacamas of Mount Veeder, dating back to 1889, has released these wines separated by ten years to show how their long-lived Cabs mature and achieve balance. Both 2019 and 2009 were similar vintages, says winemaker Braiden Albrecht, “Healthy winter rains, followed by a warm but consistent summer and mild weather at harvest, yielded fruit with great freshness and integrity.” The 2019 spent 14 months in barriques before bottling. The 2009 is, of course, more mellow but has wonderful harmony, both based on formidable fruit and softening tannins. In July 2013, Mayacamas was purchased by the Jay Schottenstein family, positioning the historic winery for the future by introducing fully organic farming and an extensive restoration and replanting of the estate vineyards. Miguel Torres Cordillera Carménère 2020 ($21) A very good price for a forceful but nuanced Carmenere from Chile’s Valle del Cachapoal. Macerated for 20 days, fermented for 15, and aged in French oak and Austrian foudre, it was released in May of last year. It was a very hot, dry year, but the weather seems to have concentrated flavors and acid at 14% alcohol for a red wine good to drink with any meats. Larkmead Solari 2019 ($200) If you like ‘em big and bold, this is a fine example of that Napa Valley style of 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 78% new oak. The alcohol is 14.9% and the wine can use some age to settle things down, but this is a formidable example of old-style California red wine making, with spice and firm tannins. Only 946 cases produced. As creator of Brunello di Montalcino, Biondi-Santi takes as much pride in its Rosso di Montalcino ...
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